Showing posts with label raising chickens. Show all posts
Showing posts with label raising chickens. Show all posts

Wednesday, August 11, 2010

Raising Chickens - Location And Methods � Part 1

Poultry can be made to do well almost anywhere, just as cattle are made profitable on many farms not especially adapted for dairying. Management and system of housing should be varied to suit the location. Some good paying poultry farms are on stiff, heavy clay land, where water collects in pools after rain. Others just as profitable are on rather thin, light soil. Still, it is generally agreed that a good, free, well drained loam has certain advantages. The soil dries quickly after a rain, snow melts more quickly, it warms rapidly in the sun, every shower purifies it by carrying down a part of the impurities. On wet, heavy soil the fowls should have very wide range or the ground becomes muddy and unwholesome. Yet such land is a rich storehouse of plant food and affords the best of grass and insect diet even when drouth checks all fresh growth on other land. Heavy land is best suited to the colony or free range systems. Some of the largest and most profitable farms have been thus located and conducted, and the fowls maintained in perfect health and vigor.

On rather poor land the fowls should also have wide range in order to find enough wild food. Good pasturage should be considered as important as for cattle.

Rocky land is seldom made the location of large farms for poultry culture, since frequent cultivation and cropping is a part of most systems. Money saved in buying rough or sandy land is soon lost many times over in decrease of net returns. If one may choose, let him buy good, clear, well drained loam, with a gradual southern slope and a forest protection at the north. But, as said before, most locations can be made satisfactory by suitable buildings and system of management.

The site of permanent buildings should be well drained naturally, but in a great majority of cases the conditions will be improved by at least heaping up with a horse scraper a little knoll of earth about the same in area as the house. Dryness is the great preventive of disease in poultry, and is even more important than warmth. A dry hen will stand a great deal of cold weather without much injury.

Foundation and Walls – It pays to have a stone foundation reaching down to frost line, or from one to three feet below the surface and rising about one foot above the, ground level. When covered with earth, a dry, dusty floor is ensured all winter, and rats are kept out even without a cement covering for the stone floor. Anything but a stone foundation is likely to take up more or less moisture, which will freeze and thaw, making the floor hard and cold, or muddy, neither state being suitable for scratching and for dust baths. Floors below ground are unsatisfactory in moist climates Dampness works in, spoils the scratching floor, stops laying and causes lameness, colds and bowel trouble. If the floor, however, has been raised by a rock filling, the outside of the building may be banked with earth to good advantage.

Tight Foundations – When small buildings are erected upon the farm, there is a temptation, in the interest of economy, to omit the tight stone foundation and put the building on posts. This leaves the building open beneath and permits the cold winds to reduce the temperature. A plan is shown in the cut, Figure i, which obviates this. The walls are boarded up and down, using matched cedar boards, and allowing these to extend to the ground, as shown. A little soil is then banked up against the lower end, which is grassed over quickly, making a tight foundation that will last many years. If the framing is made to use crosswise boarding, put on the latter as shown at right of Figure i, using a wide cedar board to extend from the sill down to the ground, and bank with a few inches of earth as before mentioned. The building can then be shingled or clapboarded.

In placing a house, let it face the south or as nearly so as possible. It is cooler in summer and warmer in winter than one facing either east or west. The sun in summer during the hottest part of the day is nearly directly overhead and does not shine in so strongly in a south window. In winter, when low in the heavens, the south window catches more of the sun’s rays.

A Poultry House Floor of cement may well be patterned after the plan shown at left of Figure 2. The foundation is of loose stones to give drainage. The stones above are cemented. A layer of small stones beneath the cement serves as drainage. The sills of the house are bedded in cement to keep out vermin. This plan gives an exceedingly warm house, and the cement floor will keep out all rats and poultry enemies. A cement floor is a cold affair in winter unless covered with plenty of dust and litter.

A Very Warm Wall designed by G. C. Watson of the Pennsylvania experiment station is double on all sides and practically air tight, with a two-inch air space between the walls. A section plan is shown at right of Figure 2. A two by three scantling set edgewise forms the plate, and to this the boards of the side walls are nailed. These boards may be of rough lumber if economy in building is desired. If so, the inner boarding should be nailed on first and covered with tarred building paper on the side that will come within the

hollow wall when the building is completed. This building paper is to be held in place with laths or strips of thin boards. If only small nails or tacks are used, the paper will tear around the nail heads when damp and will not stay in place.

The cracks between the boards of the outside boarding may be covered with inexpensive battens if they are nailed at frequent intervals with small nails. Ordinary building lath will answer this purpose admirably, and will last many years, although they are not so durable as heavier and more expensive strips. The tarred paper on the inside boarding and the battens on the outside make two walls, each impervious to wind, with an air space between them. Common building paper may be used or stout paper of any kind.

How To Build A Chicken Coop

Monday, August 2, 2010

Keeping Chickens Warm In Winter

If you are worried about your chickens freezing during the winter, keep in mind that you only have to take minor precautions to keep them warm. Remember, chickens normally acclimatize themselves to cold weather. In fact, their physical constitution is more tolerant to cold than to heat. The body warmth they get from simply huddling together during cold weather can go a long way into keeping them warm for most of the winter. However, it doesn't mean that it's safe to neglect the environmental conditions that determine the well-being of your poultry during the cold months.

Heat conduction plays a critical role in the wintering of your poultry. Placing a bed of sawdust or bundles of straw in the coop helps in keeping them warm just in case huddling together is not good enough to handle the cool temperature. Setting up a heat lamp in a secure place also helps in providing direct heat just in case a particular chicken has poor tolerance for extremely low temperatures. Just make sure that the heat lamp is at a safe distance to prevent your chickens from getting too close (chickens like to perch, so make sure the heat lamp is at an elevated area that they can't reach).

A coop that is dry and free of draft (but still ventilated) is very essential to maintaining reasonable heat within the shelter. One thing to avoid is barring the door since chickens love to go outside and exercise every once in a while, even during winter. Make it a point to clear the coop's surroundings of snow in order for your chickens to have the luxury to venture outside whenever they feel the urge to do so.

Proper feeding is very important during a chicken's winter days. Corn is a good supplementary diet since it provides internal warmth. And of course, water needs to be provided daily just like in summer days. I highly recommend using a hard horse rubber dish for the fact that it's relatively easier to remove the ice without breaking the dish.

Providing roosts is also vital in avoiding your chickens' toes from freezing. A roost made out of wood is always better than metal or plastic because wood doesn't conduct cold. The roost should also be wide enough so that the chickens' feathers can cover the toes and be able to provide warmth into them.

Combs and wattles on chickens can be a big problem since extreme coldness can cause frostbites. Rubbing Vasoline regularly can be a big help to alleviate this particular problem. You can also resort to "dubbing", which is the process of removing these extra appendages, in the means to fully remove the possibilities of frostbites and the complications that go with it.

Remember that the rules change if you are brooding chicks. They should be kept entirely safe from drafts by placing a solid wall around them. Maintain a heat lamp over them the same way you do with full-grown chickens. If you can't establish an airtight habitat for them, it is best to avoid the notion of raising them in the winter.

Incredible Chickens! The Complete Guide To Raising Chickens At Home!

Saturday, July 31, 2010

Raising Chicken Tips: Producing High Quality Chicken Eggs

The effort to produce high quality food sources and quality farm products has been a major focus in all sectors of the food industry. For the average man working in the poultry industry, the changes, complexities, and practices in producing high quality chicken eggs and meat could be stressful if not bewildering, but what happens in the farm determines directly the quality of the products that the poultry produce.

In egg production, the main focus of safety is to prevent salmonella contamination. It is also the ensuring that the chicks and pullets are not harboring the bacteria. One effective way at preventing this from happening is insuring that the feeds used are free from pathogens. Regular vaccinations are conducted to assure that the flocks are healthy and the observance of proper sanitation, eggs washing and refrigeration is observed from the farm to the market.

Producing high quality chicken eggs is straightforward. It only requires keeping healthy hens that are free from infection. The things to do:

• Reduce stress in the chicken house. Chickens that are not over stressed are more resistant to infections. For this the chickens must not be disturbed, if that cannot be avoided, prevent disturbances to the least possible. Chickens are naturally evasive to contact from those that it is not familiar with, even unfamiliar human scent.

• Except for scheduled management and maintenance, the supply of water and feed must not be interrupted. Even when the chicken can do with yesterday's water, the water supply nonetheless should be as clean and uncontaminated as possible.

• Maintain ample spaces for hens. A layer would need 4 to 5 square feet in moving space. When hens are crowded, irritations between hens occur that leads to pecking and fighting disturbing egg production.

• Make sure that the chicken house is secured from other animals and unauthorized personnel. Contact with poultry must be minimized.

• Do not feed broken eggs to the chicken. Doing so will develop the habit and will start them pecking at eggs. Instead, clean the chicken house of all residues of the eggs and dispose of it immediately.

• Keep a clean chicken house. Cobwebs, dust, dirt, and broken eggs harbor bacteria. This includes good housekeeping in all aspects of egg production like, egg packers, conveyors, elevators, and egg belts.

• All eggs must be collected promptly. Collecting eggs twice each day works well for most farms. For bigger farms the collection must be done often.

• Eggs must be handled carefully to prevent cracks, washed, and refrigerated soon afterwards.

• It often happens that pesticides are to be used to aid sanitation and cleaning. That being the case, only use pesticides that are approved for egg production. Likewise, use chemicals only when necessary.

The above-mentioned guidelines are sufficient practices in producing high quality chicken eggs. For further assurance, a common test it to place the eggs between a light and the eye. The yolk of high quality eggs appears translucent. Those that appear cloudy are already stale and may no longer be fit for consumption.

Incredible Chickens! The Complete Guide To Raising Chickens At Home!

Thursday, July 29, 2010

Raising Chickens: What Chickens Need to Survive and Thrive

Ancestrally, chicken are jungle birds. They are survivors living in trees and are good at adapting to outdoor conditions. Taking good care of chickens then is easy provided that the chicken raiser give them what they need to survive and thrive. The needs of chickens are few and simple.

Housing

• The first among the basics for raising chickens is a housing that is clean and secured from predators. Chickens are a good prey for foxes to badgers and for cats to rats. The chicken house then should be secured that every possible entry point of predators are closed and barred.

• Build a chicken house that is elevated from the ground. This will keep them away from damp and diseases. While chickens are sturdy birds, they are prawn to bacteria and diseases, many of which come from the damp ground.

• The chicken house should also be made of materials sturdy enough to withstand different weather conditions and it should have ample ventilation.

Space

• Provide enough space for chickens. Chicken could be irritable creatures when the mood strikes them and that could be just about anything. When they are, quarrels will start. When blood is drawn, the blood will strike the fancy of other chickens in the henhouse will start pecking at the bloodied chicken sometimes to death. A chicken house is already cramped when there is less than three square feet of space per chicken.

• Likewise, the nest box should not be designed to accommodate more than four chickens. Two chickens per nest box are good.

• Chicken runs should be secured and fenced around with the base of the fence buried at least 10" into the ground while the height should be at least five feet.

Food and Water

• Chickens could live on yesterday's water but when the water has droppings it has to be cleaned. A steady supply of clean water is essential if the chickens are to be healthy. Vitamins and minerals could also be introduced into the water to boost the chicken's immunity from diseases.

• There are two basic types, the corn, and the pellets. Corn feed is mixed with other seeds and the seed mixed to the corn does not differ much from one manufacturer to the other. The other type is pellets. Pellets have three categories. First is the starter mash or layer mash, the second is the crumbled pellets that are recommended for feeding the pullets and the third is the pellets. There is no difference in composition and nutrients present. The difference only lies in the manner of fineness and coarseness of the feed.

• Chicken eats most food and it is good to let them roam around for variety. Chickens should also be fed grits, as they would need this for digestion to prevent having a sour crop.

These are the basics that the chicken will need to survive and thrive. There are other minor issues like disease prevention, selecting the breed, laws and regulations, but for chicken keeping, these are the things that come first.

Answers To Raising Chickens - A Complete Guide To Keeping Chickens

Monday, July 26, 2010

Raising Chickens 101: Protecting Chickens From Other Animals

Chickens have a lot of attributes but unlike most animals in the food chain, except for their typical if not initial distrust, they have none for defense. Aside from that, chickens do not move fast, are noisy, meaty, and tasty, that makes them the ideal bird to prey upon. To protect chickens from predators and other animals, observe try the following.

Introduce human smell.

The scent of humans is very repulsive to animals. It has often been claimed that the reason that man is the least to be preyed upon is due to human smell. There is not much study to support this but the fact is man will only be preyed upon when a predator is starving and there is nothing else available, when a predator is sick and is unable to hunt or is very old that their movement and ability has been limited, when the animal is threatened with its back to the wall and escape routes are closed and sometimes when a man is mistaken for another identity. To do this, hang bags of hair and used clothing inside the chicken coop and the fence preferably near entrances.

Discourage predators from your premises.

This will depend much on the predators that are in your area. Different predators use different methods. Consult with the animal control or the local authorities in your area. Aside from that you could use chemical deterrents. An electric chicken fence may also be ideal. Outside of these, remove places and clear spaces where predators could hide. Having dogs around will discourage most predators from getting near the place.

Build sturdy chicken coops.

Build the chickens living spaces free from gaps and holes. If the flooring of the chicken house is made from slats, install wires underneath to prevent predators from digging from underneath. Cover weak posts with wires to prevent them from biting through and lock up the chicken hutch without fail when the chickens are roosting in their coops.

Prevent access.

Predators will dig underneath a fence if they could not jump over it. When building the fence, ensure that it goes at least 10" or more below the ground to discourage digging. See to it that there are no weak points either in the fence or in the chicken house itself.

Provide barriers.

When the fence is made from chicken wire, bury planks that are at least 8" deep into the ground, also put footplates near the fence. Make the height of the fence at least five feet to prevent foxes from jumping over. Leave the top of the fence rough for added measure. Generally foxes could jump as high as their length. There are foxes though that could jump more than that. Leaving the top of the fence rough could catch if not scrape their underbellies on it.

Other methods of protecting your chicken from other animals could be provided by other farmer/residents in your area who have been raising animals longer than you do.

Incredible Chickens! The Complete Guide To Raising Chickens At Home!

Raising Chickens: Important Information on Feeding

Chickens can eat almost everything from meat to vegetables. You can give them dog food and they’ll peck it with full gusto. You can give them pig food and they’ll eat it without hesitation. Chickens are cleaners of garbage tidbits. They can even wipe out every insect, worm, or anything little and more vulnerable than they are. The good thing about raising chickens in your backyard is that it needs no feeding qualifications other than vitamins and boosters.

Grains can also be fed to your chickens. Scraps of food bits and peelings can also be fed. You see, feeding isn’t that hard for as long as you save some of those leftovers for your poultry to feed on. Chickens are also intelligent for they know when the bucket of treats is ready for lunch.

You can feed your chicken in many ways. You can either put it in a container that is big enough to accommodate their number during mealtime. Scattering their food isn’t also a bad idea without the worry that it will go to waste and remain scattered. Bones with tiny bits of meat are also their favorite.

Now, when it comes to hens laying eggs, calcium is required for their diet. During the months when laying season is on its verge, you can feed your hens calcium just by including in their meal clam shells that are already crushed. Do not, by any means give clam shells that are whole. They may be at risk of recognizing these clams as their own egg shells. So you have to see to it that the clam shells are thoroughly crushed into pieces before giving it to them. These are available in your local feed stores.

The most advisable food for your chickens are feeds, pellets, corn and grains. Meat, fruits and vegetables can be given out too. But chickens can’t have all the fun gobbling everything up. Their diet must also be kept in observance because there are certain kinds of food that aren’t advisable for them to eat. These foods can either be harmful or worse, deadly. Aside from the foods mentioned below, basically, other feedings are safe.

Reason why chickens should not eat these types of food

Chicken If you were given the opportunity to eat the thigh of your neighbor, would you do it? Same reason why chickens will dearly object if served with their own kind. But they will not know this. They never will. That’s why, it is alright if you have included chicken bones to their meals. But the consequences can be outstanding because if given large amounts of chicken meat or parts of the spinal cord and brain, this may lead to the development of encephalopathy.

Apple: An apple every two weeks given to 4 birds is fine but if this routine is done every day, you could expect digestive problems.

Peelings of Potato: Chickens don’t really like the idea of eating roots crops. The taste isn’t that enjoyable either.

Orange Peelings: The toughness of this is too much for them to take.

Tomato: Given in small quantities, tomatoes can be good but be careful cause if given in excess, they might affect the chicken’s droppings.

Banana: For some reason, they just don’t like them.

These are just some of the foods that aren’t really advisable to give to your chickens. Just take note: Root plants aren’t on top of their list; hard fuits can never be favorite; if given in large quantities, whatever the food is, will give their digestive system a hard time.

Easy D.I.Y. Chicken Coop Plans

Wednesday, July 21, 2010

Raising Chickens 101: Chicken Behaviors

The groups that chickens live in are called flocks. Chickens are very social birds. But they are often aggressive toward each other.

They have a “pecking order” which is the order of the weakest bird to the strongest. Chickens dominate the weaker birds especially when they are competing for food or a nest.

Chickens are noisy like many other birds. They often cluck at each other and roosters’ cock-a-doodle-doo at dawn.

Chickens are not very fond of water. So instead of taking a bath in water, they like to take dust-baths. They like to keep their feathers in good condition so they also stroke themselves with their beaks.

When chickens aren’t feeding or exercising, chickens enjoy taking a nap by perching about the ground on a branch or pole. Most times the chickens stand on one leg. The muscles lock into place so when they are resting, they won’t fall off of the perch.

Like back in the day, chickens still peck and scratch at the ground to fine yummy food for the day. Even though it is many years later, chickens are still the same animal as before.

Build A Chicken Coop In 3 Days

Friday, July 16, 2010

Raising Chickens101: Inside the Egg

A chicken’s egg is a wonderful thing. It provides things that soon-to-be-chicks need to help them grow and unfertilized eggs are delicious and nutritious.

The shell of a fertilized egg protects the embryo as it grows and prevents dirt and germs from getting inside the egg. When the egg is first laid, the chick is nothing but a tiny white disc.

For a chick to grow correctly and to hatch, the egg needs to be kept warm or incubated. After the egg is laid, the hen will sit on it and occasionally rotate it to warm it evenly. The nest should be damp too. If it isn’t, the egg will dry out and die.

As the days pass by, the chick gets bigger and bigger inside of the egg. The body begins to form, and then in three days, the embryo has a heart and blood. The egg is ready to hatch in 21 days.

Build A Chicken Coop In 3 Days

Sunday, July 11, 2010

Raising Chickens: Tips How to Clip their Wings

Clipping a chicken’s wings is an owner’s way of saying “You can’t go anywhere.” It is basically defined as the method of preventing backyard chickens to fly anywhere they want. Some, who think that wind clipping is inhumane, would rather see their chickens flying and wasting their time chasing them around the pen so as not to lose them. But others, who do it, believe that it is more of an advantage than a disadvantage.

One of the basic advantages of clipping is that if you keep your chickens in a free-range status, you lessen the thought of worrying that your chickens will go flying around and say “Bon Voyage!” If you wanted to keep your chickens inside their pen and make them lay those eggs, you have to adapt to certain measures no matter how brutal it seems.

For those who agree in the idea of clipping and are fascinated on how to clip the wings of their chickens, don’t dare think that there is bloodshed involved because there is none. Well, maybe just a drop.

You don’t have to clip everything including the actual wings with muscles, bones, veins and all. The only part that is needed to clip is the ones with the feathers. Long primary feathers. For first timers, ask for assistance from someone who knows how because if you don’t, things might get messy between you and your chicken.

Clipping chicken wings may be inconvenient and needs caution but it is the best way to outsmart your chickens. If done correctly, you can take away the balance and flight coordination thus making them want to stay even if they are against it.

There are pointers to know on how to properly clip a chicken’s wings but first, you have to organize the things you’ll need.

  1. Sharp scissors with a rounded tip.
  2. Pliers
  3. Used towel
  4. First Aid Kit
  5. Your vet’s number

Procedure:

a. Look around you. Do you see a candidate? Yes? Time to catch her. The perfect candidate for wind clipping is the chicken that has her wings growing very prominently. Usually these are the chickens you see who fly proudly above other birds. Catch the bird by the feet. This is the most ideal way of getting her under your grasp.

b. Hold the chicken by the legs and support the body by holding her underneath using the palm of your hands to stop her wriggling. Use the towel to wrap it around your chicken’s body to avoid any unnecessary movements. Leave either the left or the right part of her wings free.

c. Spread the wing displaying the entire feather section that needs cutting. The feathers must be the primary ones. From the tip of the longest wing feather, estimate at least 5 inches then start cutting at that point. Use very sharp scissors so that the process will not be that agonizing for your chicken to take.

d. You know you’re done if you see that the clipped wings are already on ground and the remaining ones are aligned in proportion. In cases of mistakes, mistakes that made your chicken bleed profusely, either call the vet and ask for an advice or rush her to the nearest animal clinic for treatment.

Check Out ====> Easy D.I.Y. Chicken Coop Plans

Wednesday, July 7, 2010

Raising Chicken Tips: Requirements for Building a Coop

A coop is what you normally call a chicken’s house. It’s their kingdom! A hen’s castle. So you have to make sure to keep their house maintained at a four star accreditation for this will help the chickens grow healthy and happy. Therefore, to keep it the way it should be, there are specific requirements to cope up with to build a coop that will satisfy both you and your chickens. You, the poultry owner, of all people should understand this.

Requirement #1

Regarding its design, the coop must be secured from any kind of predator. Every single angle in the pen – sides, below and above, must be structured to withstand the wrath and longing of predators who are always on the lookout for a free meal. When selecting a wire mesh, be sure it is the right one. Predators are more than one. They scour within the area of your coop unnoticed just waiting for the time when they can attack. You have to make sure that the coop is impenetrable because some predators like raccoons just reach out for their prey, easily.

Requirement #2

In connection with requirement number one, this is a continuation. Aside from predators, you have to secure the coop from those nasty rats. They burrow through the ground and come up from below. If the coop floor is not blocked, these rodents will slip into the hen’s quarters. Rodents are attracted to the food you’re giving your chickens and the droppings they excrete.

What’s more devastating is that these pesky rats love eggs. So whenever laying season comes, they gather too. Want to get rid of them? Good idea. But prevention is better than cure. That is why preventing them to come into the pen is better that getting rid of their presence completely. All you need to do is construct a floor within the pen, otherwise, bury a fence about 12 inches deep around the hen’s house. Be sure that the materials you will use for the fence and the floor is thick or hard enough for them to impossibly bite through.

Requirement #3

The way you build your coop must not be drafty or breezy. Subsequently, seasons will change and so would the weather. That is why; your coop must be able to endure any kind of natural effects.

Requirement #4

Roosting poles must be provided for your hens to slumber. It must have an approximate 2-inch wide rounded edges. You allot an 8 to 10 inch space between every bird. Put nest boxes to encourage egg laying. One nest box is equivalent to three to four chickens. Situate the boxes inches above the ground. Do not let it touch the soil. Place these nesting boxes somewhere private where no one can bother them while they’re doing their thing. Safety is the very first policy one should follow.

Requirement #5

Your coop must be roomy. Spacious. You have to allot at least 3 square feet for every bird. There should also be space where the feeder and the waterer can hang to which is 7-8 inches above the ground.

Requirement #6

The coop must be accessible for the owner’s sake ONLY. Predators and rodents not allowed. Easy accessibility can help you clean the coop so that bacteria and bugs do not fester.

Easy D.I.Y. Chicken Coop Plans

Get easy chicken coop plans here!

Friday, July 2, 2010

Raising Chickens 101: The Laying of Eggs

For most of a hen’s life, she is laying both fertile and unfertile, eating eggs. Hens usually only lay one egg a day.

Hens like having a nice, tight nesting box to lay her eggs. Nesting boxes are made from wood and usually have hay at the bottom of them.

Hens like laying eggs in dark, warm places rather than light, cooler places. In the wild, they use a hollow on the ground and sometimes find corners of a farmyard.

The shell of eggs when first laid are usually moist but it air dries fairly quickly. When the days become longer, hens lay more eggs. As the days get shorter, the amount of eggs they lay gets lower and lower until winter when they don’t lay any eggs at all. Occasionally, they lay eggs all year round.

Build A Chicken Coop In 3 Days

Wednesday, June 30, 2010

Raising Chickens 101: Different Types of Chickens

There are way too many different types of chickens to count. It’s hard to believe that they all descended from the same ancestor, the wild Red Jungle Fowl of India and Southeast Asia. And they still exist today! Farmers began taming these chickens thousands of years ago and later spread throughout the world. Eventually, hundreds of different breeds of chickens developed and are now seen at many farms and zoos.

Some chickens are cold climate chickens and some are warm climate chickens. One difference between the two is the way the coop is required to be built depending on the temperature needed.

Larger chickens are great for meat but don’t lay as many eggs. When they do lay eggs, though, they are usually brown. Smaller chickens aren’t as useful for meat but are great layers. Their eggs are white. Some chickens are all-purpose. They are good for meat as well as for eggs. They lay brown eggs. Its more usual to see these chickens at smaller farms

Most chickens today are produced by mating or crossing different breeds. They are called hybrid birds. This gives farmers many advantages such as more eggs or a larger amount of meat.

Some chickens are used for show. These are stranger and fancier chickens. Some lay an odd size or number of eggs while some have more fluff or interestingly colored feathers. These chickens are fun to have around and bring more excitement to the farm.

Check Out ====> Build A Chicken Coop In 3 Days

Saturday, June 26, 2010

Raising the Not So Grown up Chickens

As the chicks get older, they would require less maintenance. Meaning, there are still some things to take care of but it’s less delicate than when dealing with babies.

There are quite a few differences between taking care of newly hatched chicks and those that are like 2 weeks up to a month old. These are the chicks that already have prominent feathers and their bodies are bigger compared than when they were quite smaller. These are also the chicks that you bought from hatcheries.

The basic needs are still important like food, water, comfort, and warmth. Those four essentials can never be taken away from the list even if they are already old enough to lay eggs.

The list remains the same, although, now that they are more grown up, their needs have increased. Their appetite and hunger increases, their need for space increases, their need for water increases. Everything about them increases. Thus, you should make proper adjustments and see to it that every matter is taken care of.

Unlike in their early stages, water must be boiled or otherwise, sterilized for ensuring that the water they drink is safe enough not to upset their stomach and affect their health. But now that they have already grown for a bit, any kind of water will do. Just be sure that you’ll give them clean water like something that came directly from the faucet. Not yet ensured with the water’s safety? Then boil it.

You could now disregard the idea of putting an upside down jug on a dish. If you don’t take it away, the chicks will just frequently trip it over and the jug will fall and all its contents will be spilled. Use something that will not have the tendency to fall in any kind of motion, a pot or plastic water container can do. You can also buy the appropriate water container in agricultural stores.

Baby chicken foods can still be given. Though at times, you can introduce new kinds of stuff like including mashed potatoes in their meal. True, they hate potato peelings but they love the inner part of it especially when it is mashed. You could also include veggies like lettuce cut into pieces, cabbage, and grass is also a fine recipe to feed them. Insects? A first-class favorite.

When it comes to the temperature, you have to lessen your efforts and worries. Since these grown up chicks already have literary grown feathers, not full, but it’s getting there, sort of, warmth can be erased from the topic. The few feathers that they have grown are enough to keep their bodies warm during cold nights. But just to be sure that they get the heat they deserve, keep the heat lamp but in a more minimal state. Maintain a 20 degrees temperature within the chicken’s vicinity.

Chickens love to bathe in dust for some unexplainable reason. To add up to that, they love rubbing their feathers into the soil, and wag their feathers clean. It’s beginning to look like a tradition. With this kind of activity, it is therefore necessary to have a sandbox or let them roam around so they can dustbathe freely. But even so, maintain a clean environment. Provide a wider space for them to romp and for them to have enough room to sleep and not overcrowd.

If problems do arise, common sense can always work. These basics will definitely help you raise the chickens you need.

Easy D.I.Y. Chicken Coop Plans

Raising Chickens 101: Chicken Appearance

Chickens come in various colors, shapes, and sizes, but they have the same basic body structure.

First off, they all have a comb on top of their head and a wattle underneath their beak. Roosters usually have larger combs and wattles. All chickens also have two legs and two wings. They are all covered with feathers with a tail sticking up at an angle to the body sometimes with feathers that drop all the way to the ground.

Similar to people, chickens come in many different colors. Some chickens are mostly neutral colors while some have unique color combinations, speckles, or stripes. Besides just white, black, and brown, chickens also come in gold, silver, red, blue, and green.

Chickens usually have a rather small head, with a strong, pointy beak. They have plumb bodies and their breast is keel-shaped like a boat.

Their legs are covered with scales. Some breeds have poofy feathers growing from beneath them, covering their legs. They have nice, sharp claws that help them walk and grip things. Chickens are better at walking than flying but can flutter up to a perch.

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Thursday, June 24, 2010

Raising Chickens - Location And Methods � Part 2

It has been left for the West Virginia experiment station to determine just how much difference there would be in egg production between similar flocks kept in warm and cold houses. Two houses, built exactly alike and situated side by side, were selected for the experiment, in each of which were placed twelve pullets. One house had previously been sheathed on the inside and covered with paper to make it perfectly tight. Both were boarded with matched siding and shingle roofs.

The fowls were fed alike in each case. The morning mash consisted of corn meal, ground middlings and ground oats, and at night whole grain was scattered in the litter. They also had fresh water, grit and bone and granulated bone. The experiment started November 24 and continued for five months. The following table shows the number of eggs laid during each period of thirty days :

RESULTS FROM COLD AND WARM HOUSES

12345Total
Warm House87130138120154629
Cold House39106103124114486

The experiment clearly indicates that it is important to build warm and substantial houses for winter egg production.

In very cold climates special pains should be taken to make the roosting place warm. Combs are usually frozen during the night. Double walls battened with lath outside and lined with building paper make a warm roost room. With single-wall houses, double boarding on the north side is a protection. An outside shield of corn stalks or hay and litter is also effective.

Costly material is not needed for the poultry house. Often a discarded barn or other building can be bought cheap and the sound lumber used again. Others on farms can work up home grown timber. For city poulterers, large packing boxes bought at dry goods stores are a cheap source of lumber. Sometimes old street cars have been bought for a trifle and remodeled. Serviceable houses have been made from staves of old barrels as an outside covering. Old strips of carpet, oilcloth, wall paper or building paper may be utilized to some extent as mside protection.

A coat of home-mixed paint improves the durability and appearance of a house enough to pay for its cost. Whitewash is much better than nothing, and will add years to the life of second-hand lumber.

Shingles properly applied to a roof of fairly steep pitch are the best and warmest roofing, but a strip of building paper should be laid beneath to keep out currents of cold air which work in between the shingles. Tin or iron is sometimes cheaper than wood, and for temporary structures, felting paper with a coat of paint will last about two years. An advantage of sheet materials for roofing is that a steep pitch is not needed to carry off the water, but such materials are cold in winter and hard to repair when damaged.

Glass in Cold Weather – Amateur builders commonly use too much glass, which makes a house unnaturally warm on sunny days, but extremely and dangerously cold by night and on stormy days. One window not over three feet square and about eighteen inches above the floor to each ten feet of house length is enough. Warmth is much increased by a shutter or curtain for night. Windows should be arranged to slide to one side or be easily taken out during hot weather.

Double windows are sometimes used, but these are expensive, somewhat of a bother to put on and hard to keep clean. The cut, Figure 3, shows a single sash, double glazed, which a poultryman has recently described. The sash is made so that the glass can be set on both sides of the wooden bars, leaving a half inch or more of space between. This gives a double window and the cost is said to be not more than twenty-five cents extra per sash for the glass and the labor of setting. Those who are providing windows for new or re-modeled poultry houses will do well to experiment with this plan. The glazing must be tight and carefully done to keep out all dirt and dust from the inner surfaces of the glass. Figure 4 shows a window partly double, making a convenient arrangement for ventilating without draft, and securing greater warmth at night and on cloudy days. Roosts, Nests, Troughs, Fountains, etc, will not be treated at length in this volume. Roosts should be all on a level, should be about two inches thick, rounded on the upper side, not over two feet from the floor, and removable.

Troughs and Drinking Places should be protected by slats. Nests should be numerous, secluded and easily removed. Beware of too complicated inside arrangements when large numbers of fowls are kept for profit. Successful large farms are nearly always

conducted on very simple plans, but with emphasis placed on the main needs of the fowls. Notes – Dryness and warmth are the two main essentials in most climates. Everything inside should be removable, also doors and windows. The house should be made tight enough feo hold smoke when fumigated.

Cost ranges from twenty-five cents to five dollars per fowl. A reasonably good business house may be built at one dollar per head. When building an all-around house, provide for summer as well as for winter. Rather than extend beyond seventy-five feet, better start a new building. Study actual needs of fowls rather than comfort of the attendant.

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Monday, June 14, 2010

Chicken Raising Tips: Chicken Fencing That Saves You Money

Buying pullets is the easiest. It is also the cheapest. Chicken fencing? That varies. No matter how you look at it though, the cost of the fencing will add up to the cost of the chicken. In high urban areas, raising more than a few chicken would consequently raise eyebrows. In fact, you could be placing yourself in harm's way. Raising chicken in urban areas are more of pet raising. Commercial? Just don't.

When you are in a rural location with ample backyard space, keeping chicken is a capital idea. Capital, literally. You see, there is fancy chicken fencing, state of the art fencing and if you could afford electric fencing that is fine too, it would keep the chooks out and hem the chicken in. It will still add up to the costs though, but it is a choice, not a necessity. If you want to travel the frugal route, just as effective albeit not as pleasant to look at, were talking.

You will need corrugated galvanized iron sheets, chicken wire, planks, and whatever means to build them. The idea here is as simple as protecting the chickens and those flowers and plants that adorn the yard as much as keeping the predators out. When building, remember that chicken scratches all over the dirt. To our chagrin, they love it. They could scratch near the fence and before you knew it, the fox and raccoons gets the idea and figures out a way to get their dinner easy.

The way to prevent this is to sink the bottom of the fence about 10" into the ground. The area near the fence are usually forgotten so don't. If that is not possible in some areas along the perimeter, sink 8" planks to prevent predators from scraping underneath. If foxes roam the area get the thickest chicken wire possible. Foxes have teeth that are as sharp as wire cutters that could easily cut through thin chicken wires.

Normally animals could jump as high as their heads when standing on hind legs. Foxes are about four feet but do not bank on that. Foxes could jump as high as five feet so make the height of the fence a little higher just so the chicken are on the safe side. This may not be as dangerous in hotter months when there are easier prey for the fox to pounce on but during colder months, the fox could hunt more aggressively and get a shelter besides. While at it, do not trim the wire at the top portion of the fence. Leave it rugged.

Use the GI sheets as further protection between the posts where you nail your chicken wire. Nail also thick wire fencing around the portion of the wood with signs of wear to discourage chewing.

Chicken fencing such as this would not win you a prize for best chicken fence design. But bet your neighbor's dog this will win you savings. Bunches of it!

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Friday, June 11, 2010

Raising Chickens: Pros and Cons

There are so many reasons why someone would want or wouldn’t want a chicken in their backyard. There are debates about it and here are some:

Pros

1. Costs incredibly cheap.

When we say cheap, not only does the chicken itself count but also the maintenance of it all. Compared to keeping a dog or a cat for a pet, it is much cheaper to take care of a number of chickens most likely because they are not choosy when it comes to food. You can feed them scraps and table leftovers and they will happily gobble it up. With as little as $2 a day, you can spend on a bunch of layer mash.

2. You can get something from them.

Eggs. Meat. Ornament. Who wouldn’t want it? In terms of eggs, it is seldom that you encounter a chicken that can’t lay eggs. It is a good source of iron, which is good for the brain. You could either sell these eggs or keep them in your fridge. With meat, every part of a chicken can be eaten. Yes, every. In cases of those who don’t want to see their chickens go bye-bye, they raise them as pets and for exhibition purposes.

3. Low maintenance.

Unlike dogs who need everyday grooming and cats who need your undivided attention, chickens need none of those. You don’t have to bring them to your vet every once in a while to take shots and doses of vaccines. All you have to do is feed them and supply clean water every day. Their coops must be cleaned at least once a week or twice every month depending on the number of chickens that you own.

4. Fertilizers for free and an instant pest control agent.

These are the two things that chicken raisers love about owning a chicken. When you allow your chickens to roam around your backyard, it is in their nature to peck on whatever it is that catches their interest and their hunger. Chickens love anything that came from the ground most especially the ones that are moving. They eat insects, bugs, worms and the like. For them, these are special treats. Furthermore, it is in their nature to eradicate their internal wastes anywhere they please. But their poops are considered as natural fertilizers that the ground needs to grow plants and root crops in a healthy state.

Cons

1. They are not the best guard pets to have.

While chickens can coo and make familiar sounds, it is not in their nature to bite or coo on anyone they see who looks suspicious. All they can do is grow, eat, and lay eggs. They are also not the ideal pets you would want to have especially if you need a response like waggling of the tail or a purring sound.

2. Chickens are messy.

Indeed. Plus, their poop smells terrible that it can reach certain areas in your house. If you’re the type of person who doesn’t want to go through enduring hours of cleaning, chickens aren’t really the pets for you.

3. One for all, all for one.

Well, in terms of getting sick this is a con. Because when one catches flu, everyone gets it too. And if one dies because of that flu, it is expected that every single chicken living with that infected chicken who also got that flu is also going to die after a few days.

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Saturday, June 5, 2010

Raising Chickens 101: Mating Chickens

Small farms often have a young rooster also called a cockerel. Its smart to only have one cockerel or else they would get jealous of each other and fight over the hens.

Mating is usually year round but chickens don’t seem to mate as much in winter. A rooster will mate every two or three days, mating with many different hens.

During the day, the cockerel prances around fluffing his feathers, showing off to the hens. When a hen wants to make, she lays down on the ground. The rooster climbs onto her back from behind and spreads his wings out for balance.

Afterwards, the hen has fertilized eggs inside her. Only eggs that have been fertilized by a rooster will eventually grow into chicks. If the eggs are not fertilized, they are safe to eat.

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Thursday, May 27, 2010

Keeping Chickens Healthy

As the old adage goes, "health is wealth", and it brings home the point when one considers the importance of keeping our bipedal companions free from diseases or any debilitating illness. After all, we constantly require eggs and chicken meat from them, so it goes to show that the general health of the poultry can be important to sustain our own.

THE PERFECT ENVIRONMENT

The general well being of a chicken starts with the environment. While it's true that chickens adapt real well to both cold and hot weather, constant exposure to harsh climates can still get the best of them. That's why a coop or a hen house should be set up, while making sure that it's well ventilated and free from draft. Make sure that the perches are not too high to prevent any foot injuries. Keeping the chicken house devoid of moisture also helps prevent diseases that result from ammonia and other toxic gases.

And of course, you have to maintain cleanliness in the coop and its surrounding environs to prevent the proliferation of mites, lice and other critters. These pests can cause serious health risks if left alone. Regular cleaning through the use of clean water and disinfectants should always be undertaken to maintain a healthy environment for your chickens.

PROTECTION FROM PREDATORS

Chickens are delectable treats for any predators prowling the area around the coop. To ensure the safety of your hens, make sure that the coop and the fence around it is well sealed. Do not settle for just any wire to build the fence, and use one that is durable. The fence should be high enough that even high leapers can't jump over it, and its bottom buried deep enough (20 inches at the very least) under the ground to prevent predators from burrowing underneath.

PROPER FEEDING AND WATERING

Just like with any livestock, chickens need a well-balanced diet and a daily intake of water. A waterer device is a great tool for providing drinking water due to its timer and operant conditioning capabilities. Chickens have a formulated diet that depends on their needs as befits their age and what they're meant to provide. You might do well to do some research on the recommended diet for your chickens to ensure that they are getting the proper nutrition they require.

GIVING CHICKENS THEIR SPACE

Not giving chickens enough space to move about or "free-range" can induce a lot of stress in them, which in turn becomes detrimental to their health. Crowding can also lead to lots of fighting inside the coop, and will eventually run the risk of some chickens getting seriously hurt. Remember that each chicken should have a two square foot of shelter and a three square foot of run area, so take note of the amount of space you have in your back yard when choosing the amount of chickens you want to raise. If there's not enough, then make sure to clear enough space for them to run about as soon as possible.

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Tuesday, May 25, 2010

Keeping Chickens In The City

Chickens could be kept in many urban areas, in some chickens are less welcome. If the intention however is to keep one as a pet, that is already accepted practice. Some are even keeping reptiles for pets but just to be on the safe side, check for local laws and regulations. The local animal control office in your municipality would know how many you can keep and whether that would include a rooster. The main deterrent here is that these birds may fall under noise ordinances and so check out first as it is very easy to be emotionally attached to these birds. In Urban areas that used to be a farming community, the ordinances are more relaxed. Either way, keeping chicken in the city does not require a license.

When the issue of ordinances is out of the way, decide the kind of chicken that you want and for what purpose. If pets are what you want, you would settle well with bantams. Bantams are chicken breeds that are about one fourth of the size of a regular chicken. It is very much like having toy dog breeds. Example of the bantam breeds that are good for pets are the Barred Plymouth Rocks and the Rhode Island Reds as they are mild tempered. If you want a good layer bantam, you would do well with a Cochin. The Buff Orbington on the other hand is a larger bantam breed and is very friendly too. These are only some of the excellent choices. There are many more choices to select on when you surf the net.

You may want your pet chicken to roam around the house, even sleep in the bedroom but the chicken would pretty much prefer its own coop to roost and its own nest box to lay eggs on. You can always build one using the materials that you already have or are readily available at a local farmers market or hardware. When you do, allow a two feet square space for every bantam. The chicken will also need a place to roam; they could be cranky when they do not besides it is good for them. Allow eight square feet for the bird. Chickens are very sociable.

They prefer to huddle together with other chickens. Having that in mind, keep at least two chickens. Likewise, double the spaces allotted to them because even when they are sociable, they could be cranky at times especially when they feel crowded and might start pecking at each other. Remember also that chickens do not need a rooster to produce chicks. Expect then and make provisions that they would multiply soon if you would not need all the eggs they produce.

Remember also that keeping chickens in the city will attract predators. Bantam chickens have no way of defending itself against cats. If you love cats, it would be most likely that you know your cat is not the kind that would attack and could live side by side with a chicken. Rodents however are a different issue. When you build a chicken coop, insure that the coop is very well secured and could never be accessed by these predators.

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